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A：序 1 A：序 2A：序 3A：序 4A：序 5A：序 6A：序 7A：序 8 A：序 9早在寒假EBC徒步时就相约暑假K2徒步，再见面时已是六月底的喀布尔餐厅。A：序10这是你神圣的土地，保佑我们一路平安吧！B 前往Gilgit陪同我们前往Gilgit的兄弟。B 前往GilgitThe Road HUNTERB 前往Gilgit塞车随拍B 前往Gilgit塞车随拍--续B 前往Gilgit我们的队长B 前往Gilgit我们的队长（续）。B 前往Gilgit路上遇到的父子B 前往Gilgit用手机拍照的小伙B 前往Gilgit孩子们的笑脸B 前往Gilgit车顶上的孩子们，注意安全欧。B 前往Gilgit车里车外都是乘客B 前往Gilgit行李架上也是乘客，要小心喽。B 前往Gilgit沿途的路，两侧是高高的雪墙。B 前往Gilgit两侧的雪墙在不断地消融。B 前往Gilgit沿途的风光B 前往Gilgit车窗外的景色B 前往Gilgit匆匆的上午茶B 前往Gilgit海拔渐渐升高B 前往Gilgit路人B 前往Gilgit养蜂([]
最新章节： 第521章 CUBA全明星 （ 2024-05-29 01:41:13）
更新时间： 2024-05-29 02:09:40
- 第1章 2018世界杯
- 第2章 鹤唳华亭
- 第3章 生僻字
- 第4章 欢乐斗地主
- 第5章 欢乐斗地主
- 第6章 王俊凯粉末大片
- 第7章 存钱存了一半睡着
- 第8章 华盛顿处戒备状态冠军
- 第9章 郑爽孟晚舟案或将终结
- 第10章 刘亦菲
- 第11章 鼠年生肖邮票首发
- 第12章 易烊千玺
- 第13章 十宗罪
- 第14章 凯迪拉克
- 第15章 曝马蜂窝裁员40%
- 第16章 这样唱好美
- 第17章 X1解散
- 第18章 猎豹
- 第19章 浴血黑帮神话
- 第20章 今日亚洲
- 点击查看 中间隐藏的 86305 章节
- 第549章 星球大战：天行者崛起
- 第550章 东风26发射画面
- 第551章 猪猪侠
- 第552章 支付宝年度账单
- 第553章 幸福三重奏2
- 第554章 无人冰站北极上岗
- 第555章 一拳超人
- 第556章 幸福三重奏2
- 第557章 南方温暖历史罕见
- 第558章 遇见王沥川
- 第559章 幸福三重奏2
- 第560章 薪酬保密合理吗
- 第561章 天龙八部下坠Falling
- 第562章 《空天猎》陷纠纷
- 第563章 全职高手
- 第564章 奇葩说6
- 第565章 校花的贴身高手
- 第566章 三国杀
- 第567章 篮球公园
- 第568章 王俊凯粉末大片
永久传媒A午夜
曹智仁此贴包含了瑞士当地自助游的一切信息，主要去游览那些小乡村的美景和必看景色，避开了常规旅行团安排的路线，这里有很少有中国游人到访的小村镇攻略，所以您到访瑞士之前必读此攻略。其中包括瑞士美食、乡村、交通路线、街景、建筑、当地汽车、欧洲最棒的雪场信息、Hotel\Motel\BB……最重要的还有瑞士美女。 这场旅行是很早之前就已经列入计划内的，我[华中]2012年背包17天湘赣鄂4520km完结篇游记可以说是本次出发前的拉练。大致安排是三个月前需要把旅行计划、每一站的酒店、欧洲火车通票和瑞士通票都要准备好，因为只有这样去申请证才会更容易通过。提前两个月申请证，很顺利了15天。证到手立即预定往返机票，所以前面办的越早机票就可能买的便宜；一切都搞定的时候我就只有盼着这一天赶快到来喽。 我所发的帖子大部分是照片，包括美景、美食、美女、美车……以及所见所闻。旅行一共十三天，共有7494张照片要分享给大家，各位多支持我会有动力多发多介绍，如果能给后面即将启程的驴友一点帮助我会感觉非常荣耀。本帖是旅行前半段瑞士游的攻略，喜欢法国的可以猛点[F法国]2012欧洲第二季：法国蔚蓝海岸和艺术之都完结篇。对任何一段感兴趣的童鞋都可以去目录贴电梯直达。========================美国牛仔猎场狩猎深度体验游，微信添加HuntingClub，或扫二维码↓ 第一天27楼 苏黎世：这里有湖光山色也有灯火阑珊，有归园田居也有繁华喧闹。Beijing-Zurich苏黎世(ZurichHD-Bahnhofstrasse班霍夫大街-Fraumunster Kirche苏黎世圣母大教堂-Zurichsee苏黎世湖-Grossmunster苏黎世大教堂)-Luzern卢塞恩第二天91楼卢塞恩：美丽的田野，迷人的乡间小路，壮丽的雪山，古老的城镇……Luzern卢塞恩(Vitznau-Rigi-Bahn-Weggis)-InterLaken茵特拉肯-Lauterbrunnen卢达本纳第三天146楼 少女峰：阿尔卑斯山脉的皇后，山顶终年不化的白雪仿佛她纯白的面纱。Lauterbrunen卢达本纳-Jungfraujoch少女峰-Wengen文根-Lauterbrunen卢达本纳第四天191楼 首都伯尔：最不像首都的城市，高山古城、中古风光。Lauterbrunnen卢达本纳-Spiez施皮兹-Bern伯尔尼-Spiez施皮兹-Visp费斯堡-Zermatt采尔马特第五天257楼 采尔马特--冰川和雪山的天堂：Zermatt采尔马特-Matterhorn马特洪峰-Zermatt采尔马特-Visp费斯堡-Spiez施皮兹第六天307楼 体验瑞士白葡萄酒最佳产地： Spiez（施皮兹）-Montreux（蒙特勒）-Vevey（沃韦）-ChexbresVillage（谢布尔）-Rivaz（沃州）-Montreux（蒙特勒）第七天432楼 火车穿行瑞法边境 ： Montreux蒙特雷-Geneve日内瓦-Lyon里昂-Provence普罗旺斯-Nice尼斯第七天的法国日程将发新帖在“2012欧洲第二季：法国蔚蓝海岸和艺术之都”上进行报道，但行程目录维持不变，可点击直达！第八天 小国摩纳哥：古堡老城、千帆点点，香车美女，杂技、豪赌 Monaco摩纳哥的La-Condarmine拉康德明千帆点点、山顶别墅--点击直达 Monaco摩纳哥的Monte-Carlo蒙特卡洛世界最棒的博物馆和海洋馆--点击直达 Monaco摩纳哥的摩纳哥城世界最大的赌场和奢华酒店--点击直达 法国最美小镇EZE Village（埃泽）的The Church of EZE--点击直达第九天 蓝色海滩尼斯： Nice尼斯-Toulon土伦-Paris巴黎第十天 购物天堂巴黎： Le Louvre Museum卢浮宫-Lafayette老佛爷第十一天 浪漫之都巴黎： Sacred Heart CAThedral圣心教堂-Notre Dame巴黎圣母院-Champs Elysees Street香街-Triumphal Arch凯旋门-Eiffel铁塔第十二天 艺术之都巴黎： Palace of Versailles凡尔赛宫-Eiffel铁塔-La Defense拉德芳斯（新凯旋门） 第十三天 回魔都：Paris巴黎起飞-Zurich苏黎世中转-Beijing降落 往返均预定的是瑞士航空，从北京T3出发时间是凌晨6点，基本上3点我们全家就已经准备出门了。快到登机的时候竟然发现登机口方向出现日出的霞光，立即拿起相机记录下这美好的一刻。因为有玻璃，所以太阳有重影，即便这样也给我的旅途增添了无线的快乐。 我们再多看一眼北京的日出吧，其实也是非常漂亮的。 飞机舒适度不错，机上吃的也不错早餐是小圆面包+牛角+奶酪+黄油+草莓酱+火腿+伊利酸奶，餐具是不锈钢的了，看不到国内航班的塑料餐具。午餐依然有小面包+鸡肉米饭+蔬菜沙拉，甜品是巧克力慕斯，我自己要了一瓶红酒，自斟自饮感觉已经美滋滋啦！ 其实每顿正餐都是一中一西，因为我没要西餐，所以忘了西餐是什么。餐后的甜点是我爱吃的。瑞士著名的巧克力，从你还没飞离国土就已经开始让你体验了，吃一口立即融化在幸福与甜蜜中。 飞行时间是9个小时，瑞士与中国有6个小时的时差，落地正好是当地时间11点多。出来后再最后回眸一下大灰机，心中默念一句回头见！因为我返程还是坐它。苏黎世机场整洁如新，指示牌非常清楚，这个传送带与国内不同的是它很软，踩在上面像地毯一样略微有点弹性，这样站着不至于太累。所有人下飞机的头一件事应该都会去一个地方，看第一眼有点吃惊，不锈钢使用的很彻底，材质用料非常讲究，后来发现不仅是机场，大街上的公厕也是一样的准，感叹人家资本主义的做事风格以及实力。取行李的方向需要下一个很高的扶梯，然后再坐小火车才能到。一切指引很清楚。机场内的各种广告 出来的时间貌似有点晚，传送带上孤零零只剩下我的背包。苏黎世机场外面是一个集餐饮购物交通一体的建筑，向上是飞机出发层，向下是地铁也可以说是火车的出发层，中间是便利店及餐饮区，出门到外面就是公交和出租。我们自然是向下做火车到苏黎世市区，开始我们的第一天之旅。去Zurich HD的火车进站口找了半天，习惯性以为在机场外面，顺便也拍了些当地的小吃，那个大黑锅不知道里面卖的什么东东。 没想到这里设计这么先进竟然在一个楼里飞机火车全搞定，而且火车是没有检票、没有安检、没有排队候车一说，下楼梯看好要坐火车到达几站台，直接上车就行，票都是在自动售票机自助买的，上车偶尔会有查票的。大家可以想想我们那么先进的北京国际机场不要说转火车了，你换机场快轨试试，不走20分钟都不算北京欢迎你，再次感叹我们自己“以人为本”的服务理念。列车是双层的，又宽又长。上车需要自己按一下门上的按钮就会自动开门。自行车、婴儿车、轮椅……通通可以上并有专门位置这里的站台有好几个，分别有四趟火车从这里出发，而且站台设计成了弧形，我不懂求砖家解读这样设计有何效果？可能是地下空间有限吧。苏黎世的车站大街与巴黎的香街具有同样的地位，自然少不了LV、HERMES、CHANEL、PRADA等名店，但那些都是庸脂俗粉我还是给各位上一些小清新吧。在苏黎世湖一望无际，非常羡慕住在湖边的那些居民，哪怕是做一只苏黎世的天鹅也是幸福无比。过了这个大桥就开始河对岸的返程路线，这一圈其实只不到4km，但走走停停看看一个下午不知不觉已经过去。我们要返回火车站，到Luzern（卢塞恩/琉森）住宿。出发之前天气预报说明天瑞士有雨，今天初到苏黎世始终是阴天，真有点担心后面的天气会不会影响行程。不管了，到了火车站先填饱肚子再说。前人的攻略介绍说火车站有一家叫NORDSEE的餐厅不错，进去后决定好好感受一下当地的口味，基本上看什么都想吃！不过本人也是一贯如此酒足饭饱后到车站查看最近的火车在几站台，直接等就好。欧洲的所有火车站都没有安检、检票一说，就像上公共汽车一样。站台外边一步可能就是马路或街道。车上偶尔会有查票的。Zurich和Luzern都是大城市，所以坐这趟车的商务人士不少，大家找到帅哥了吗？一路上经过的小镇都是小木屋，每家都有自己的花园和车位，非常和谐。经过一个叫祖格（ZUG）的小镇，人口不多但足球场让人羡慕 当地时间19点，我们到达Luzern，火车站是现代建筑门口拱门前依然有一个旋转木马。出了火车站就是一条河，过河后就是我们预定的酒店，酒店内的家具被褥一应俱全都是IKEA的，而且感觉即温馨又舒服。酒店门口是一个小广场，这里聚集着大量的华人，是一个旅游团的购物点。我们径直回到酒店放下行李后出来去超市采购一些水果和零食，顺便拍了拍卢塞恩长廊的夜景。这条长廊是卢塞恩志性景点，从酒店出来步行2分钟即到。第二天从酒店出来步行到火车站存包，然后坐船去登Rigi山，运气好的话会看到琉森湖全景。当天的行程如图。游完卢塞恩（Luzern）后会乘坐火车经因特拉肯（Interlaken）转车到卢达本纳（Lauterbrunnen）。 火车站门前的拱门，上面有欧米茄大表以及各种雕塑，不明白上面三个头像的表情是什么寓意。火车站周围的警力部署相当充足，大众的B7和B6。火车站的存包处价格和苏黎世一样贵啊，而且非常长，看来这个地方的游人不少，价格是大箱7瑞郎。顺便说一下，我的背包大小没设计好，小箱子放不进去，大箱子很空有点浪费了。存好背包后直奔车站门口的码头，上船！ 站在船尾让我想起一首歌：十字红旗迎风飘扬，胜利歌声多么响亮； 歌唱人家亲爱的祖国， 已经走向繁荣富强！远处的小镇已经越来越近了，名字是Kehrsiten-Dorf。当停靠在码头时下去了一位乘客又接着启航。一路上看到的湖边小镇都是依山傍水，这就是大家所说的伊甸园。这是我们行船的第二站Weggis，要比上一站的小镇大多了，这里也是我们游览完Rigi山后乘坐缆车下来的地方，所以后面详细介绍这里。一路上到处是依山而建的小木屋，景色无法言语表达，那份清静和自然只有身处其中的时候才会深刻体会。第三站就是我们的目的地，远处已经可以看到山峰上大大的瑞士国旗了，可惜今天上午阴天山顶藏在了云中。我们乘船的目的地Vitzhau到了，这里可以乘坐登山火车直接到达最高峰Rigi-Kulm。 这里大概有七十多条徒步线路，根据季节和自身情况选择各种走法，好想冬天在这滑雪啊，欧洲人太幸福了。对了，这里是不需要门票的。纪念瑞士的齿轮火车创始人路边广告([]
国内芒果精品自线一区2021
林意卿我承认，每次要写帖子前就纠结很久很久，因为开了篇就要对它负责，要好好写，要写完我承认，我给帖子起名字的能力很差，没什么文艺色彩，为啥不能先写主体最后起名字呢我承认，写游记的时候罗里吧嗦，把自己的感受不论正面负面都狠狠说一遍我承认，每次看照片，都觉得怎么拍得这么少，当时怎么就这么懒不能早点起来晚点收工这次丝绸之路之旅，从2011年7月20日到10月17日，快3个月，行程大概有3000~4000公里那么多，好在有火车和汽车，不然3年都回不来这也不是完整的丝绸之路，因为不是从西安开始的，国境都没出，就不要说巴基斯坦和中亚之后的那段了（很想去，但是。。。）行程的顺序是西宁-青海湖-门源-祁连-山丹-张掖-敦煌-乌鲁木齐--库车-喀什-麦盖提-塔什库尔干-和田-民丰-回到乌鲁木齐-克拉玛依-乌尔禾-布尔津-贾登峪-禾木-喀纳斯-白哈巴-（原路回到乌鲁木齐）-鄯善-哈密-回家深感西部牛羊肉之好吃极了百吃不厌深感天朝的交通发达和交通费之高昂深感祖国地貌之丰富多变和色彩斑斓深感西部大开发让物价有了明显提升各位有耐心请听我慢慢道来，不要急，写帖子累啊！希望大家喜欢（张掖冰沟丹霞）开贴啦从65页开始放上攻略，方便大家截取有用的部分，作为自己旅行的参考。西宁就是中转而已，住在西凉驿青旅（不知为啥它当时从yha网上除名了），但是它很火，气氛很好直接去了白玉巷子的手抓肉大饱口福，再喝了杯当地酸奶。一切准备着，为次日向青海湖进发做好准备！青海湖非常热门，班车买不到票。在车站门口愣住很久，最后决定包车前往，一直开到了黑马河，原来这里是著名的日出观测点住宿帐篷，4人100元一顶。这里看上去不是那么为众人知晓，不然价格就。。。还未必住得上下午3点，吃了藏包子和奶茶，往湖边逛一逛当时除了我们4人没有其他游客，湖边宁静得很湖边藏民牵着马，慢慢的走着。我们没骑马，只是和他们聊了聊他们并不急于向我们推销生意，也许他们只是晒晒太阳湖边有个小女孩，是这些牵马藏民家的小精灵，静谧的青海湖，湛蓝的水边，有了她，才更加令人难以忘怀她不怕生，我抱着她玩了一会儿，她就咯咯地笑八过，等我放下她的时候，我的手已经被她褪色的小棉衣染红了（有谁会ps，把后面这两个人p掉啦）话说高原地方空气真好，天也澄净等我们在湖边玩得差不多要撤的时候，呼啦来了几车的游客。一打听，是为了次日早晨日出拍摄踩点来了。哦，原来是这样！不知不觉得路上骑行环湖的友人推荐，住到了个好位置啦！回头再看看，天还是那么蓝，可是柔美如丝的云变成了块状。来得早不如来得巧，鉴定完毕！距离晚饭还早，进主干道开展“扫街”活动再遇到非常热情的藏民朋友有日光的时候，他们坐在街边晒太阳唠嗑我们拍照，她们很乐意，左边抱着孩子的女士请我们上他们家去拍他们家是个小四合院这位女士借了藏袍给我穿，由于形象恶劣就不贴出来了他们家的老爷子很可爱的个性，看我们拍照，就趴在窗台上看我们这身衣服，让我想起了80年代的典型着装我们拍毕，女士带着我们去往村子周边示意一个婆婆握着转经筒让我们拍照他们看见显示屏上的照片，都乐极了。我要是有个立拍得就好了，让他们都能存上自己的照片。可是银子。。。。。。翻页了，继续努力中完美的拍摄下午结束了，在镇上吃了晚饭，溜达回湖边帐篷。次日还要早起，快快就寝。话说这还是7月份的青海湖啊。晚上，我掏出了羽绒服，掏出了羽绒睡袋，再准备好抓绒帽子和手套。高原，真冷！第二天六点，被这日出和浪涛深深感动了！八过，湖边总不免有些垃圾，只能挑干净的地方描绘美的一面了，呵呵日出拍摄的时段很短，没多久就日头太高光比过大同时，日出拍摄旅行团也来了我们就撤退会帐篷吃早饭高原7月的早晨，我的穿着是羽绒服，抓绒服，保暖衣裤，帽子，手套，供大家参考（我比较怕冷）转战151，这原先应该是一个部队番号，也因为它刚好距离西宁151公里，因此大家都简称其为151了，同时它也是湖边有名的赏花之所。其实，七月青海湖边油菜花盛开，是旅游最旺的时候。拥有大片湖边油菜花田的藏民，每人5元，每日200-300人次，可以计算，为期一月的油菜花季，农业之外的收入是多少。姐表示非常羡慕他藏民小姑娘，淳朴、羞涩得很。我把相机给她玩，她能从长枪短炮的关注下转变成拍摄的掌控者，这让她开心极了。我们请她在花田里跑跑，她开心极了边跑变笑，实在是湖边最美的风景高原天气变化很快，早晨美丽日出后，中午阴云密布回到青旅休息，可是始终不甘心。到后山走走，居然飘下几滴雨。同行人决定午觉，可是他们也是闲不住的主儿，一会儿就探出头来问：再走走吧？再一走，天又晴了。后山有个村子，村里有一群快乐的藏族小孩这是其中最羞涩的一个，笑的时候都会紧张地看看我们。后山的青稞和油菜花！大片大片从后山回来，又到了日落时分出门走走，远远看见湖边有两顶帐篷，就不管远近地向它们走去小路弯弯，只有我们几人，好美的斜阳好宁静的的地方遇到骑车过来的藏民，他们说，一定去帐篷那里转转走啊走，到了！ 牵马的孩子，他羞涩地牵过马来，说，你看我的马好不好漂亮吗？不得不说我们运气真的很好我已经多少时候没见过太阳又大又圆从地平线落下去了？我再次被湖边的景色感动了这又是个我们几人独享的景色远处的经幡飘荡，看晚霞布满天空日落下去好一会儿，天色还是那么迷人站在半沼泽的草堆上，温度渐渐低了，好冷，但是舍不得走想着，这青海湖边拍的差不多了没想到，次日还是早早起了，青旅的后山，终于正儿八经地开始拍油菜花了日出油菜花田，用了下滤镜以此结束青海湖2日的行程。没有环湖，以前环过，比起这次，觉得没什么必要，看到的东西不会比在黑马河和151看到的多。如果是摄影爱好者，私以为这两个地方足以，每年7月-8月初回到西宁，班车门源，几十里油菜花田青稞田村落，惊叹！门源，7月10日-8月10日，浓缩了全年旅游最高峰宾馆价格将会从平日的100元以下，飙升到几百大元，甚是恐怖有兴趣者，又想节约银子者，可以找农家院的炕头住。就在班车下客处边的岔路墙上有他们的广告，100以内可以搞定回到正，门源的美，真是大美啊！走，赏花去！ 高原的天气说变就变，上午的雨一阵一阵，到了午后，偶尔地出了一段短暂时间的太阳，之后，又是一阵暴雨。当时还在困惑是不是要出门拍摄，最后因为肚子饿才逼着自己走到县城。准备出行时，心中仍然满怀犹豫。门源距离青石嘴的20多公里路，是油菜花景致最为集中的一段，然而当车沿着公路开过，阴雨带来的心情始终让人觉得包下这车子有些不值得。前半段在观花台走了几圈，并没有发现特别让人振奋的光影。突然，也没有风，完全无征兆地头顶上的云层散开了，岗什卡雪峰也露脸了。在短短几分钟内，整片天空像变脸似地蓝得透彻，阳光毫不吝啬地洒满在金黄色的油菜花田里。光影依然未必尽如人意，然而云过天青的惊喜，足以让我感到走上观花台是值得的。绕过青石嘴，沿着不知名的路线，令人惊叹的风景就在车后窗如卷帘拉开：时而牛羊在河边饮水，时而马匹在草场上散步，时而青稞浪随风摆荡，时而油菜花探头微笑，时而山峦在云影下明暗有致。想让司机停车很多很多很多次，然而总是要取舍的，不然真的一步都挪不动了。如果我有青稞的视角，我就这么拍如果我有牛的闲工夫，我也这么晒太阳吃吃草绕道后山，见全景也遥望见一片次日要探索的地方环游活动结束，还舍不得回去，走到天边，夕阳从青稞田平面的远端落下了北山公社前一晚远远地看见山边的一个村落在夕阳的照耀下闪着迷人的光彩，就决定次日一定要想法子去看看。果然，当我们来到北山乡政府门口的小路边，立刻就被那接天无穷的金黄色征服了。这是一张很平凡的图片，不过，试想一下，把它向左右延伸5倍铺开，形成180度的环视场面，非常震撼了（鄙人ps基本不会，接图也是白痴一个，因此，只能请读者想像一下）近处来看，小花小草都很让人赏心悦目坐在石凳上，喝一杯小茶，吹一吹小风
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黄彦博Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangMr YANG Liusong, a Chinese who just finished the first solo traverse over Chang Tang by cycling from west to east in recorded human history, shared his stunning Expedition with all of us through the forum 8264 https//bbs.8264.com/thread-512349-1-1.html . In order to share his legendary journey with those who cannot read Chinese, I translate his story to English here, which has been approved by Mr YANG Liusong. Hope you guys enjoy it.为了让杨同学的传奇能让全世界的驴友分享，俺决定把杨同学的帖子翻译成英文。为了避免麻烦，俺先来个免责声明：1。杨同学不认识俺，也没有授权俺，如果他说不要翻译了那俺就随时终止；2。俺没有商业目的，译版版权归杨同学，俺啥也不要，也不承担法律责任；3。没有杨同学授权，不敢擅自发在国外网站，发在原帖处，荣誉归8264；4。俺英语水平有限，欢迎指正，欢迎转贴。 Northern Wilderness, Solo Traverse of the Great Chang TangBy Yang LiusongIt has been three months since I traversed the unpopulated region in the Great Chang Tang. There are many like-minded asking me about it. I now present this thread to briefly tell everybody about my journey.The starting point of this traverse was from the highest peak of the western part of the Tibetan plateau, Jieshan Daban, and the day was April 20, 2010.I was heading eastward passing Bungdag Co, Yanghu Co, Rola Co, and Kangzhagri Mountain, which crossed over the desolate region from west to east. The journey continued northward to enter the unpopulated area of Altun Mountains, through Hoh Xil Mountains, Kunlun Mountains, Whale lake, ..., finally met some people by the Aqqikkol Hu and then arrived in Huatugou by vehicle three days later and that day was July 5. It had been 77 days in total. I had been all alone 74 days after leaving Jieshan Daban until arriving inAqqikkol Hu, which was about 1400km and about four months.[The Great Chang Tang] In Tibetan, "Chang Tang" means northern empty wilderness while narrowly, means unpopulated region in northern part of Tibet. However, it actually indiCATes all of the no man's land in northern. The great Chang Tang includes desolate places in Northern Tibet, Hoh Xil, Alun Mountains, and Kunlun Mountains, which are interconnected to form the unique and super empty wilderness in the world. Only because Hoh Xil is the most known name, most people just think this vast land is equivalent to Hoh Xil. In reality, Hoh Xil is only a small piece of the Great Chang Tang both administratively and geologically. The Great Chang Tang, the last land to chase your freedom and dream.The route that I traversed ForeplayI arrived in Tibet in the early March, a couple of troubles bothered me. The brand new plug got its positive and negative wrongly connected; the rivets of my rucksack eASIly got broken from now and again; and a multi-functional charger got damaged and so on. Riding my bike to Ngari for warming up of this journey, lost my rucksack but later got it back; lost my camera bag and got it back later again, and finally lost a big bicycle pannier in the street of Gyangze town under the eyes of police, including clothes, solar panel and so on.Without much choice, I returned to Lhasa to adjust all the stuff I would need in the wilderness. Then I begged some luck by going to Nyingchi to enjoy the blossoms of peach trees and to take a hot spring bath. I even had the privilege to enjoy time with ten girls in the hot spring. I felt my bad luck had all gone and then returned to Lhasa again to prepare going to Ngari. I did not expect that I was cheated on by some hustler and lost some money and delayed my schedule for a week. I had to find a car myself quickly to Nagri. However, I lost the tool for fast-parting my rear wheel on my way to Nagri, where was a remote area in Tibet and nowhere to buy the tool. Even if there was one in Lhasa it would take at least ten days for a special delivery service. I was lucky that my mate Duola asked a driver to bring the tool for me from Lhasa. I thought there should be no more nightmare like this but the nozzle of my brand new multi-fuel stove was broken. The next day I tried everywhere to weld them back together. The first three shops could not do the welding for copper. The fourth one said they could do it but could not guarantee a sUCCess. The engineer said it would be ten Chinese yuans if it was a success. I agreed. Just in seconds, my nozzle became crap in a flash of lightening. I was so upset. Again, Duola helped me by bringing her own MSR oil stove and Dingding's sleeping bag to Nagri. That was already April 16 and I did not have much time to waste. The following day I found a vehicle heading to Jieshan Daban.The sand storm over Yarlung Zangbo RiverA lonely peach tree blossoming in Yarlung Zangbo Grand CanyonNatural hot spring in wild, me singing and drinking (photo by a friend of mine) Day 1(April 20), 16km, Camping 5192mIt was a truck with a full load of iron wastes, arriving in Jieshan Daban at 6'o clock in the morning. It was still night and extremely cold and dark. Driver was not bothered to pop his head out of the driving cab. I climbed up on the top of the iron wastes, taking my bicycle down. In a hurry, I punched my old water bag. Fortunately I had another MSR water bag given by a friend of mine otherwise I would definitely fail without even starting my journey. For the first time for me to set up the brand new tent in strong, cold winds. It would be impossible to do so if the tent was not a whole piece. Extremely cold outside, about -15C, might be lower than that, I put my head into the sleeping bag but was nearly suffocated to death, honestly. The smell of Dingding's sleeping bag was, lol, so extraordinary. I woke up around 11 o'clock. There were still strong winds outside so that I had to use my bodyweight to keep the tent in place. At the time when I just started to cook and eat, four patrolling soldiers approached me. To their surprise someone, in this season, camped in Jieshan Daban. I was so nervous and afraid they were the people to block my journey because I was caught and deported from the desolate land last year. Luckily the four soldiers did not know my destination and were very kind to me. After they left, I immediately packed my stuff and pushed my bike into the depths of the unpopulated area just in case anything unexpected happened.The bike was very heavy due to the provisions and hard to control. There was even a quite small hill that I had to remove my bike panniers to get over it. This really struck me because this happened even the path was still the hardship one at the moment and I could not imagine what I would do once I entered the uncertain, endless wilderness. Until now I had not met anyone, even the nomadic pastoralists. I remembered there were quite a few of them roaming at the edge of the northern Tibetan plateau last year. All of these indicated it was not the good pasture season in such low temperature and strong winds. Around 16km there was a sheep cote, where I passed it last year, east of Lungmu Co. I was exhausted at this point so that I decided to camp in here and to rest my head. After arranging tent everything I went out to look for the wetland discovered by Duola and Liumeng last year. I was determined to find it.There were many hot springs in the wetland which were underground water with a constant temperature. The wetland therefore became an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such harsh weather, which was the very unique land feature of terrain in this over 5200m highland.Perpetual snow in the valley blown to corn shape by strong windsThis wetland was discovered by Duola and Liumeng. The workers at a nearby mine did not know it and I too missed it last yearUnderground water with a constant temperature, an ideal habitat for some fishes and weeds under such icy weather 感谢大伙儿支持和加分，不一一回复了。特别感谢多啦，希望能有机会一起喝酒吃肉。 Day 2 (April 21), 0km, Camping5192mBlustering gale all night, up and down like ocean waves. The next day rather than continuing to travel, I stayed inside the sheep cote, hesitating and pondering over. Indeed, there were so many problems before this journey;I did not have sufficient physical preparation;the load had already reached its limitation; I still coughed a lot;the weather was so extreme and cold. All in all, I did not think this journey was well prepared and I did not have confidence in completing this journey mentally and physically. To do, or not to do, it was the question. Similarly I did not have confidence in my facilities, not knowing whether all of them would work functionally or not. The fact was one of the rivets got broken again and the front rack came loose. In the afternoon, I replaced all the rivets of the panniers with screws I had prepared before. This was an excellent job I had done which gave me no further troubles throughout my whole journey. I also re-adjusted the front rack. However I did not think it would definitely all right because I did not have a tool to do it. When the darkness descended,I made up my mind to continue my journey, which, of course, was not beyond any imagination. Orchid-like weedsSmall springs everywhere, clear and chillyA thin layer of ice covering the fresh spring water The sheep cote, it was the door under the sleeping bag, which was in the same place as last year, everything looked like yesterdayThe wetland at duskLungmu Co at dusk. You could hear the gigantic sound of wind if the picture had a sound Day 3 (April 22), 52.4km, Camping 5145mGot up in the morning, could not put everything into the bags. Without much choice I had to throw away three portions of tsampa, elbow pads, and crampons. Following the road of the lead-zinicmine I found the side path to enter the wilderness, which was on the riverbed and very hard to see. I missed this side path last year so that I had to take a short cut into the wilderness directly then. That was why I had taken extra care to find the side path. The following journey was to get over a big hill, which lay 5275m above sea level and was the highest point of my whole journey. Around 2 o'clock in the afternoon, I passed the side path leading to Orba Co and started a journey which was complete strange to me. I ate a piece of pilot breads, which was frozen like rocks so that I had to use my spade to crush it. At 6 o'clock in the evening, I had pushed plus rode my bicycle for about 32 km. I reckoned I should have been able to double this if I did no carry such heavy load. The wind became stronger and stronger. I opened the parasail kits and tested it. The result was far beyond what I expected. With the aid of the strong wind I was just like flying over the wilderness. After 8 o'clock in the evening, I started to observe the water Source and to get ready to camp. Map showed there were successive springs along the path and assembled to puddles. But I had overestimated the water source here in this land and in this season there were endless wilderness inside the valley, where I could not see a single drop of water. As it became darker and darker, I felt a little bit nervous which resulted in three spokes of the parasail broken and became a useless rubbish. Anyway, it helped me to move forward 20km more which benefited me a lot later on. When time approached 9.30 pm, it was almost completely dark. I had to lie my bike on the ground and went on to try to find water on the north side of the valley. This was a wide and flat sandy land, where I could not see any ditches there and further was complete darkness. I returned to get my GPS to look up the contours and found the south part of the valley was closer to a hill so I took the way. Finally I found a piece of ice in a ditch. I smashed about 20litre of ice. The ice was quite shallow scattered with sheep poo. On my way back, my eyes were hurt by strong winds, which got me a couple of days to recover. It was nearly 23 o'clock after I set up the tent. It also took about 40 mins to melt the ice. I was so tired and my appetite was completely spoiled. I then had a little bit of milk. I had never expected thing would go like this, it was so distressing. Streams along the path, ice everywhereThe river flew into Matou Hu, in whose north part there was a satellite lake, a wonderful ice-skating court It took 40mins to melt the ice in midnight Day 4 (April 23), 31km, Camping 5028mA cloudy day with gusts. From now and again, hails chased me from behind. Sunny spell. Heavy sandy land made me have to push my bike. At 3pm, I arrived at Luxing Hu, where there was a house made of clay. This was the last permanent building of my journey. Last year, Duola and Liumeng once lived in this house for three days without meeting anybody. It seemed it was the same but the truck parking in front of the house made me worry about. I went to the sheep cote first to check over, where there were only a few lambs following me everywhere I went later on. This made me feel warm in my heart. I observed farther places using my binoculars but could not see any people or sheeps. After making sure there were no people around I opened the locked door using a screwdriver. The living room was very clean. There were two boxes of beverages on the ground and a string of cured lamb legs hanging over in the interior room. A pot of water was on the top of the stove, lukewarm, which indicated the host must be not far away from his home. I filled up my water bag and left the house. I also put the screws back to the door in order not to leave any trace of my visiting. I then took a spanner from the toolbox of the truck, which gave me great help for the rest of the journey.I left the house as quickly as possible. After last year's experience, the nomadic pastoralists were the last people I wanted to meet. A few hundred meters away from the house, the vehicle traces were fading fast. Even downhill, I had to push rather than to ride because of the heavy loose sand. From the route point of view, only after Luxing Hu it was the real unpopulated land. After many days, I thought of the lamb legs from time to time. It was pity that I then had plenty of provisions and the bike was too heavy to carry anything more. Continue to melt the ice under the morning sunshine, all of the sheep poo had been removed carefullyCamping site, the little hill over there was the place where I got the ice last nightThe house by the Luxing Hu, empty, the last permanent building I saw throughout my journeyDay 5 (April 24), 19.8km, Camping 4951mSet off at 10.30 in the morning, the weather was similar to yesterday. Probably this road was the high plain or somewhere the wind passed so that it was so windy. The average wind speed was degree 6 but could reach degree 9 in the blick of an eye. The road was still full of sand and very heavy to walk on it. My eyes became worse under such harsh weather. About three o'clock in the afternoon, I saw something in my right, looked like antenna. I went closer to see what it was and found out it was an iron tower (the triangulation station). In 1970s, a joint team from Chinese three military regiments entered this area doing research. They have left a lot of triangulation stations and benchmarks, which I had the priviledge to see them today.At dusk, I approached to a spring by the Bungdag Co, which flew into the frozon lake. The sand and soil, brought by the strong wind, scattered on the surface of the ice all over the lake. There were so many cracks around the icey surface of the lake. I geussed it must be caused by the springs under the water rather than by melted ice. In the west of the Bungdag Co was the side path leading to Keriya Pass, where a SUV could reach directly. I had looked out any vehicle Tracks but failed. The cloudy sky started to snow. I set up the tent comfortably because I knew that I was safe having such a sweet spring beside me.Triangulation station erected by scientists from the joint research team on Chang Tang of three military regiments in 1971[size=+0]The gap between water and ice in Bungdag Co, I guessed there must be some springs under the lakeThe storm just above the ground, a chaotic darkness[size=+0]Icy Bungdag Co,one of the four biggest lakes in Northern Tibet, wild ducks flying over this vastness and lonenessSnowing at any time, should not happen so frequently like this in this seasonDay 6 (April 25), 4.3km, Camping 5002mWeathering landforms everywhere around this area. Spongy volcanic rocks could be found easily. I pushed my bike turning around a small hill, seeing a big river, the Yinshui He, flowing from Orba Co into Bungdag Co, which I had been to its upstream last year. It was also a passage for animal migration. The downstream of the river was extremely wide and broad. The thickess of the ice layer could reach one meter with the main stem in the middle course of the river, very deep. There were a few springs along the river, sweet and clear.I only went forward a little bit more than 4km but I had walked more than 20km for finding my way. It was not possible to cross the main stem, let alone the north bank of Bungdad Co. What I could only do was to try to find a shallow place to cross. But the southern area was a even larger piece of wetland and forced the road turn towards west. I spent a couple of hours but failed to find a good point to cross the river. In the afternoon, I decided to follow the edge of the wetland. When I reached the hill foot, the wetland finally disappeared. Around this area, there were clearly volcanic feature of terrain and I even found traces of pasturing and cairns made from volcanic rock.Here was the last pasturing trace I found throughout my journey, I guessed it was a summer pasture area. After this, there was no clear sign of human activities in this vast wilderness. I had been looking for my ways until it was dark. I made up my mind where to go TOMOrrow. The terrain here looked like Yardang landforms, as well as volcanic landforms The Yinshui He river from Orba CoSprings scattered all over the river bank, painted green by lovely algaeThe river was very deep. The mixture of green and amber colour showed the sand and mud carried by the melted iceThick layer of ice, sunken surface caused by strong gustsThe south course of the Yinshui He, countless small streams. To the right was the wetlandLooking for ways in the east, a trace of pasturing and the cairn made from spongy volcanic rocksMy camp, opposite to the hillDay 7 (April 26), 11km, Camping 5009mI moved forward to the direction I found yesterday, turning around the wetland and walking toward east. At 2pm, I was blocked by the zigzag Yinshui He again and I had no choice but to cross it. The river was about 700m wide, covered by ice which appeared very different. The hanging ice, the folding ice, the piling-up ice, the icy puddle, and the sleet were everywhere along the river bank. Having noticed all of these, I reckoned the river would be receding at dusk, which was why there were so many different shapes and forms of ice. I put my slipper on, going into the main stream of the river. I found there were at least three different courses of the river, the thickness of the surface ice varied and the river water reached above my knees. I sighed there would be no way back once I crossed this river. There are many ways in one's life too, you can only take it once and you will no long have the courage to repeat it.I pushed the bike crossing the river. Some of the ice was a bit soft, jamming the tyres so that I had to use my feet to break them first. Some of the ice was a bit thick but with half-melted underneath, sticking the the bike completely, some of the ice was half-water half-ice with a sandy riverbed, which was really hard to pass. I had to remove all of the panniers at the last stage of the crossing. I spent the whole four hours to cross the river, my legs got many bloody cuts. At 6pm, the surface ice was almost disappeared completely, the river level rapidly rising to a chaotic status. I thought if I hesitated a little bit at that time, I could not have the courage to cross this river under such circumstances. The river bank was unimaginably sandy and was quite steep. I had to unloaded the panniers again to reach the top of the bank. By the time of sunset, the weather became exceptionally good. The sunlight from the descending sun, the blue sky, the faint moon, .... I liked such a colorful and peaceful Chang Tang and very much enjoyed my camp and myself bathed in such beautiful colour.The ice like this was very thin and suspended, far away from the main stemHard surface with half-melted underneath, the soft sand at the botton was most scaryThe ice like this could easily jam the wheels, hard to get it outI had to unload the panniersChaotic water and terrible hails turned up in no timeThe Chang Tang at the moment liked it used to be,a mixture of cold and warm tones under the golden setting sun Day 8 (April 27), 14.6km, Camping 5112mLast night, I forgot to bring in the odometer, which was out of order due to the coldness in midnight. Since then I used GPS to check the mileage. The digital thermometer was no longer working. I had to use mercury thermometer to collect data. Night temperatures were basically between –15℃—–20℃ while the temperature inside my tent was about –10℃. The advantage of the integrated tent was that it limited the ventilation so to keep warm inside. However, it got clearly disadvantage of heavy condensation and dew. Every morning, there was plenty of frost inside the tent so that I had to put my hood on First Before fully getting dressed. The winds in Chang Tang finally became consistent with the pattern I had researched the other day no or very tiny wind in the morning, strong wind started after 2pm, and then at around 8pm its strength was reduced again. The accuracy of this prediction was about 80%.The road was very bad today. I walked whole afternoon in an ancient riverbed and it was so difficult that I had to use all of my strengths to move a small step forward and then to stop to breath, slower than a snail. After five hours' struggling, my eyes got wet when I saw the grassy river bank. Finally! The nightmare was over.Cold and clear morningHeavy morning condensation in the interior, a lot of frost to clearSuch dawning sunlight indicated a cloudy day ahead Day 9 (April 28), 18km, 5072mIn the morning I entered a range of sandy roads which were so terrible. The solar panel specially designed for GPS got short circuited. After checking it was found to be the diode got damaged. Luckily I got a replacement. Because the GPS was exclusively supplied by a solar panel so that it was no longer a problem for the power supplement of GPS. In a period of 70 days, I did replace the battery once, which saved me a lot of alkaline batteries. I did have another solar panel of 5.4 W which was used specifically for 7.5V Camera, DV and other digital facilities. Unlike water, I had never been short of power.At 7pm in the evening, I arrived at Pur Co. The surface of this lake was very odd the ice by the river bank rose and the river bank was broken, I reckoned that was due to the strong winds. The ice there was mingled with something yellow, could be the stain of alkali. There were many wild yaks on the other side of the lake. There could be two brown bears but I could not be for certain. On the east side of the lake, there was a peninsula leading to the centre of the lake. I camped just opposite to the peninsula. At night , I smashed the ice to get drinking water, which tasted alkali. For the first time I cooked the cereals, which was brought completely by accident. This was just because I found there was a little bit of extra space when I was in Nagri packing the stuff for this journey so that I bought two packs of cereals. It tasted disgusting, probably there was too much alkali in the water. I threw away half of it. Later I realised that probably I subconsciously felt that the provisions was so heavy. I would rather make it lighter at any cost.Dry all my stuff in the morning sun, a routine matterA faint dusk in Pur CoThe river bank pushed up by ice and opened like zipper by gustsThe pushed up surface of the iceThe place where I got my drinking water, a thin layer of ice behind the ablation corns The moment just before sun set, glittering Pur Co, nothing was the same差点儿没找到俺自己的帖子，原来变色了。多谢各位鼓励。 Day 10 (April 29), 16km, Camping 5141mIn the morning, I walked around the north bank of the Pur Co， where it were continuous ups and downs sprinkled with light yellow sprouts across the sparse grassland. The wild yaks clustered into small groups. All of a sudden, there was a group of five of them running towards me, blowing a huge cloud of dust with the power of thunderbolts,I believed that anyone who did not know the characters of the wild yaks must be frightened to death under such circumstances. The fact was the wild yaks in groups never injured people. Rushing to you just to show you its territory. When they approached people at certain distance, they would turn sharply and run away, and then stopped somewhere high to stare at you. You can not imagine that the wild yaks were very cautious animals compared with its almost one ton of weight. Their first reaction, when meeting people, was to raise their tails, the front hooves rubbing against the ground, the horns pointing forward, the eyes redden, and the long body hair shaking, all of which showed their determination to fight.This was the warning sign that you should retreat. However, you should realise that this was only a gesture that they were afraid of you and wanted to scare you away. The thing was that if you were not afraid of them and moved forward, they would run away in no time. There were only some mad yaks attacking people, which was really rare to happen. In Chang Tang, an experienced driver know that it is very dangerous to pass directly from two or three lonely wild yaks. They always tried to avoid confronting them directly. If this was not possible, they would lit a cigarette, smoking, to wait until the yaks walked away themselves. This was because the wild yaks really could attack vehicles, which was not completely rumors. I once asked them why I had not been attacked. They told me that because my bike was so small they would not be bothered to attack it. My own experience was that approaching a wild yak very slowly, do not look into its eyes, and ignored what it was doing. As long as it moved forward a little bit, just stop and give the yaks a little bit of time to think. Because if you forced the yak, it could be themost dangerous animal in the world and nothing could stop them killing. Even a gunshot could not kill it but only left a small hole in its skin. In the past, the nomads living near this land would use yaks' skin as chopping board which was very much endurable. At noon, I lost my balacLAVA, which was brand new and I had never used it once. I could not be bothered to go back tofind it. This resulted in that I had to have my fleece hat day and night in the rest of my journey, which did not provide fully protection from the sun in the plateau. But somehow I was all right, perhaps because my skin is similar to those of yaks, lol. At around half past one, I found a deserted Jeep, upside down. I felt it could be there for years and it could be the vehicle of someillegal HUNTERs. Nowadays, we have wildlife conservation reserves in Chang Tang and the animals here are well protected. However, some people kills the wild yaks to sell them as the domestic yak's meat. In general, it is worth 10,000 Chinese yuans for a single wild yak. Therefore many people take the risk to make money. They often enter the unpopulated areas to hunt and their activities can reach 200 km in diameter. This is why the wild yaks in the deep wilderness are less afraid of people than thoseat the boundaries of the Chang Tang region.There once happened that a wild yak mother revenged its baby's murder in the Altun mountains. Its horns pierced the killer's chest and held his body over its head for more than ten days, which was very touching.Around 3pm, I walked out of the Pur basin. The next point was Hong Shan Daban and then it was the Yueya Hu by the Toze Gangri. At this time I found a vehicle track from south to north. I checked over but could not find the way where they had gone. I took my map, GPS, and compass, climbing up a small hill to estimate the location of Hong Shan Daban. The mountain was very round and it was hard to find the mountain pass. After determining the location of the Daban, I moved straightforward. When I passed a messy grassland, I saw something that I was reluctant to see more than hundreds of wild yaks' head scattered all over, which was definitely the scene of the illegal hunting. After that it was a very long ancient river bed with soft sand slowly rising until the foot of the mountain.There are some spines on the surface of the tongues of wild yaks, which are used by nomads in this area as combs. They use them from their teens to the time when their hair becomes silver.The deserted Jeep, could be left by illegal hunters years agoThe slaughtered wild yaks with the wheel size heads. Some of the skulls were chopped into half. Why was that? Could be taken away for making combs?My camp at the foot of the Daban underthe lingering golden rays of the setting sun. Tomorrow's weather must be wonderful, I reckoned Day 11(April 30)， 20.4km, Camping 5120mThe surface of the road leading to Hong Shan Daban was very hard, most of them were small rocks, sort of gravels, plus a quite long downhill slope, I pushed my bike more than 20km for the first time after Luxing Hu. The mountain pass was quite flat, just like a broad ridge, it was 5256m above the sea level. Upon arriving at the pass, Toze Gangri of 6356m was in my sight clearly, very much round and there was no back bone like normal snow covered mountains. Most of the snow mountains in Chang Tang looked like this probably it was due to the geological movements. There were quite a few chirus or Tibetan antelopes in the valley but I was not interested in this kind of animals anymore after I witnessed a large scale of migration of such animals last year elsewhere.The herbivorous animals here are very quick to reach its original size of the population, such as wild yaks, chirus, Tibetan gazelle, pika, and marmot. When you go into the depths of the Chang Tang, you could hardly be surpised by the sudden appearance of the chirus because they are so common in here. At this time of year, the chirus have already male-female parted. You could see many pregnant female chirus but hardly see any males. According to recent research, Zonag Co is not the only lake for breeding. There are at least four of them in the whole Chang Tang. Zonag Co, Tuzi Hu, Heishi Beihu, and another lake I can not remember. I think there must be more than four of them and most of the populations do not migrant long way like most people used to think. They generally migrant from south to north between Central Mountains and Kunlun Mountains.The chirus looks very timid but are very curious about outside world. They are not really afraid of people, particularly in the depth of the Chang Tang. The nearest distance we can approach is about 30m. They just stare at you calmly and think who you are and why you move so slow. They would run in front of you. Look like they are afraid of you but the fact is they are playing with you. A man's own character shapes his fortune. This is of course suit for animals too. The chirus are the typical one. They have a super speed and a pair of sharp antlers. If they are crazy, three of them work together could easily kill a wolf. But as you might have known, their antlers are just for fighting to mate with females.Down the Daban there was a very steep and straight road, I tried to ride the bicycle but ended up with falling over. The front rack came loose and one of the pannier flew into valley. The foot of the mountain was the Yueya Hu covered by ice, which was alake full of heavy metal elements. Along the lake bank there were many stark rocks very much weathered, lining up just like castles or houses. This made me stop to investigate what they were from time to time, I did understand they were just rocks though but they were so real like the figures of real people. On of them even made me hide in a ditch, observing them again and again using my binoculars. There were also many black volcanic rocks. All in all, the features of this area were really unusual.Passed over the Yueya Hu, it was an endless ancient lake bed. What my GPS showed was this area was a big lake like tentacles. I looked around, it was endless wilderness without a piece of ice and a drop of water. Roughly, I estimated this lake bed was about 1200 square meters. I had to tell you that Chang Tang was a place where there was no high-resolution map. The marks in the map often were some kind of memory. Just like this ancient lake bed under my feet, may be it was full of water a few years ago. Who knows. Pushing the bike in such an endless lake bed was very easy to get lost. My mind was in a chaotic status too.The migration of the animals, photo taken last year The road rising up to the Daban, full of gravels, very hard, ideal for pushing your bikeThe Yueya Hu gazed at by the round and smooth Toze Gangri. At a glimpse, could you tell which was mountain, which was cloud?Ancient lake bed. The white stains were the alkali, look like ice. About wildlife (part 1)Declaration Personal experience for reference onlyDangerous wild animals and their threats to human beings are a ever-LASTING subject for those backpackers travelling in the wild.In Chang Tang, for example, there are two kinds of deadly animals, one is wolves and the other is brawn bears. As substitutes, wild yaks and crows might be dangerous to you in some circumstances that I will come back to this a little bit later on. As for how to protect yourself against these dangerous animals, I think the primary point is you do not try to hurt them because the emotions of human and animals are same instinctively. [Wolves]Throughout my journey, I met wolves a total of seven times, in which I confronted them five times. As you might have known that wolves have become more and more solitary animals, it is very rare they live in a large group nowadays. Please allow me off the point a little bit and talk about the ecological problems in Chang Tang. The problem is now not the decrease of the number of the chirus but the imbalance of the whole food chain, more specifically, the number of the animals on the higher trophic levels of the food chain has not yet reached its ideal level which results in this kind of imbalance. Particularly, the pikas and the marmots who have lost their predators rapidly expanse which results in the desertification of Chang Tang. As early as the middle of last century, wolves were the dominant predators in the vast wilderness. They became a threat not only to other preys but also nomads pasturing in this land. Therefore, the then government called on people to cull back the population of the wolves in Chang Tang, which resulted in the current situation directly. The last official record about wolves attacking humans was around 1970s, which happened in Bamaoqiongzong. A team of secientists was surrounded by a group of wolves and they had to shoot them using guns. Of course, at present in Chang Tang, wolves are absolutely lonely.In this traverse, the first time I encountered a pair of wolves, one of them staying in front of me pretending to attack me while the other staying behind me. This is the standard attacking strategy of wolves. First, you should not be nervous which can be easily detected by the predators. Second, you should not retreat even an inch because this means you are the prey rather than the predator. Do not make any large movement, of course you could take a picture if you feel safe to do so. You must look into its eyes for a few minutes or even half an hour. When the wolves can not work out who you are and consider you are not posing any danger to them, then they will leave. You should remember that wolves in this land do not lack of food and it is much easy for them to catch a pika than a human. Even if being hungry, they would evaluate how easy to get you done, What you need to do is to show them that you are not interested in them and you are not afraid of them at all, let alone to show your ID card to them. As for the wolves family, really, I have not heard for ages. If you really have an encounter with them and they have no other choice, then it definitely depends on your forture. In fact, for so many year, it has been very rare to happen that wolves kill human. But the rumours are still there, in particular, the road connecting Xinjiang and Tibet.The nearest encounter with a wolf throughout my journey, no conflict at all[Brown Bears]Brown bears are real dangerous animals to human. Every year there are some accidents happened in some regions of Xinjiang on the north side of Kunkun Mountains and steppes in Northern Tibet. More than that the bears could attack your house, smash your windows, and eat your sheep. Therefore, in Northern Tibet some local councils give subsidies to the pastorarists for compensating the losses due to the bears because they are not allow to fight back and kill the bears except their lives are in great danger. Once there was a nomad taught me a method to protect yourself from bears. He told me to pick up a stick to feed the bear and the bear thinks the stick is your hand which tastes disgusting. So the bear would leave. It was so funny but the reality is to find a stick in this vast wilderness is just like you win the lottery.Bears are omonivorous animal who are generally not interested in human flesh. You can find that in most of accidents, the bears did not eat any of the human flesh rather they just smashed them for kind of fun that we could not understand. For the reason why bears kill human, one explanation is the conflict between human and wildlife in this extreme ecological environment. The nomads invade the habitats of the bears, which results in these conflicts. On the other hand, it might be because bears have quite high IQ so that they think it is much easy to kill a sheep in the cote rather than to kill a pika in the wild.I have met bears five times in my traverse, in two cases we were very close to each other. I had even walked with one of them for quite a while, just like we had a date for a walk. The fact is it is not that terrible like you might imagine. The same rules for dealing with wolves apply to bears. Never provoke dangerous animals. A bear can run at a speed of 40km/h, do you think you can compete this in a highland 5,000m above sea level?However, there is a situation where it is really dangerous, that is the encounter. It is not easy to control your instinctive reaction to the external dangers. Last year once I turned around a hill, there was a bear just in front of me. The bear of course was frightened by me with its front legs holding up, waving in the air and roaring. At that time I sat on the ground, ignoring it. The bear then left in a few minutes. Chang Tang is a vast land so that this is not that easy to happen. But if it does happen, really only God can bless you.The nearest encounter with a bear throughout my journey. This bear disappeared in a herd of wild yaks, which I had tried hard to spot, really weird About wildlife (part 2)Declaration personal experience for reference only.[Wild Yaks]I have talked about quite a few, like in the post of Day10. I will no longer talk about it.This was the funniest encounter with a solitary wild yak, who did not warn me. If I sat down, it sat down too. If I moved forward, it stopped. Could not imagine what it was thinking about.[Crows]Crows are dangerous only when you fall unconscious in the wilderness. Of course they will be the first to taste your flesh in that case. Unlike their cousinsliving in urban areas, the crows in Chang Tang have a larger body like eagles. When they fly over your head, you could feel like it is a piece of cloud. They are scavengers but like fresh meat too. It once happened that a baby was killed by crows relentlessly, let alone the lambs got killed by them. Once a nomad asked me for fireworks to scare the crows away. (They are sacred birds not to be killed by human)It is easy to defend yourself against crows, that is to keep fighting, never fall in the wilderness.A short break attracted the crows. Of course, they were miscalculating this time, photo taken last year[Strategies Adopted]At the time when I met the four soldiers in Jieshan Daban, they said there were many dangerous animals in the Northern Tibet and asked me if I had brought a shotgun. I think if they knew that I would enter Chang Tang they would definitely check if I really have a shotgun. The so-called defence facilities I brought with me were the fireworks and pepper spray. I had never used them. The fireworks were ruined and thrown away when I crossed a river and I had never opened the pepper spray. I even had never thought about this when camping in the night. The reason was I did not feel the needs. During the day time whenever I met any animals I had never touched the knife I had brought. I did not have anything to defend myself when I walked out to investigate the route. The Chang Tang is really a vast area so as to be very easy to detect anything strange.By the way, you'd better to avoid mating season's animals because even tamed rabbits could be aggressive in mating season.The thing is even if you have a gun, it is not very much helpful when bears attack you. Therefore, your attitude is most important.I can tell you something. Dogs are more dangerous than these wild animals. I had been chased by Tibetan dogs, pounced on by dogs in mating season, also besieged by a group of dogs. I really feel it is more useful to know how to defend a dog.Declaration again The above experience is from Chang Tang only. Of course, the more you prepared, the better. Day 12 (May 1), 23.8km, Camping 5117mToday was May 1 -- the Labour Day, I had been walking in some lake area marked in the map but clearly dried up. The lake basin was flat and hard so that I even pushed my bike more than 20km. Let it be the special treat for my May Day. After midday it became cloudy with growing winds. Since the Yueya Hu that I passed yesterday, there were no big lakes until Yanghu Co (My route would be between Jianshui Hu and Bairab Co), there was even no light alkaline water to drink so I had to pay extra attention not to miss any possible drinking water supply to fill up my water bag. There were a few very small lakes but all were alkaline puddles which was very shallow, whose depth was no more than the length of a half-finger. These puddles were covered with a hard shell of the mixture of salt and ice which smelled stinking and decaying when getting closer, must be toxic water I supposed. On the shore of this type of small lakes it was muddy soil and very hard to get closer.There was no sign of tundra at all.It was almost half past six when I found some snow corns in a ditch, which was the only drinking water supply of the day. There was a thin layer of melted ice on the surface of the ground near the snow corn, which was very hard to collect and was contaminated by the alkali. The snow corn was the yet melted thick snow, which was shaped like a corn by wind. The snow was quite hard and dry,porous like ice. I crushed a few snow corns, putting them into the water bag.They would be my drinking water tonight. These snow corns were the only one in today's wilderness, I reckoned the reason why they were not melted like others was the soil underneath contained large amount of ice blocks which acted as a freezer.Very strong gale in the night, it was hard to bear the sound of the vibration of the tent. Small single tent was good in the sense that it would not be blown away as long as you stayed inside. But you had to be very careful to set up the tent. I once did not pay much attention when doing so, the tent was blown away by winds, and rolling over like a Giant lantern ... I ran after it, got it back, and was exhausted. In general, it is not possible to fix the tent completely using tent pegs because they were not very much effective like large tents. It was snowing around 23 o'clock, the winds were howling from north,then the falling snow flakes landed on my tent quietly, I finally felt at peace and fell asleep. The flat ancient lake basin, assisting me walking more than 20kmSmall lake en route, toxic waterSnow corns, the only drinking water supply today Day 13 (May 2), 0km, Camping 5117mWaking up in the morning and opening the tent, the heavy snow outside must be sent by the God to force me have a break for the May Day. After lying in for a while, getting up and walking on the snowy ground out I went to have a look around. As first sight there were a herd of chirus. They were plainly to be spotted because they looked like a clear black straight line in the while snow. I returned to get my camera and then followed them to take some pictures. But they were very much alert and kept a quite long distance from me. I felt they were a group of pregnant females, instinctively protecting themselves from any potential harm. I was no longer short of water, the snow gave me a precious supply of drinking water. The problem was that they were very petrol consuming. I tool 8.6 litre of petrol and the oil stove was Duola's MSR. The pot was of 1.5 litre, mainly for boiling water. After several days' experiments, I found that the liquid water needed 16mins and 14-15mins to boil in the morning and evening, respectively. For ice, it would take 35-40mins while for snow it took 45-50mins. Melting snow was a very time and petrol consuming process so if I had a choice between snow and light alkaline water, most of time I would go with the latter. Lying inside the tent, listening to musics,I smoked a cigarette while gazing at the more and more chirus around me. Because it was very cold I had been wearing my shoes all the time. Now I just put my bare feet under the warm sun for some fresh air. I found three cuts in my hands and one in my sole. The cuts were about 4cm in length, looked terrible but it was actually all right really. Half of my toes were injured by to much walking, quite painful. I fetched my medicine bag and found I only got four patches of plasters, a serious mistake. One of the cuts in my hand had never been cured until I was out of this desolate land so as to feel like this finger would drop from my hand at any time. The others quickly recovered in a few days then new cuts appeared elsewhere. This process occurred periodically. I felt that it was somewhat related to the cold, dry weather and the lack of vitamins. The snow rapidly disappeared, which is unique phenomenon in Chang Tang. Because of the low air humidity and the high radiation from the sun, the snow was evaporating very fast, much quicker than the melting speed. Owing to this, the ground was generally still dry after the snow disappeared. In most cases, it would be only 2/5 left in the afternoon around 2 to 3 o'clock and small patches of ground could be seen. It would be completely all right for walking the next day. On the third day there could be some snow left in somewhere the sunlight hard to reach. So generally it could give you three days of water supply after a heavy snow like this. One of the pannier was broken, the most expensive one from deuter series, supposed to be waterproof. I will come back to it at some point later. Everything was covered by snow, no way out Lying in the middle of Chang Tang, listening to Tian Zhen's songs, and smoking Baisha cigarettes, what else can you ask for? The pregnant female chirus in migration, probably heading to Heishi Beihu to give birth([]
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丁俊毅第二次在8264上发帖找伴，临行前两个礼拜，才发的帖，详见召集帖https//bbs.8264.com/thread-1204496-3-1.html，急匆匆组了队。其实对我这样的懒人而言，实在是因为赶不上4.6小豆他们的队，而我又刚好要赶在4月底前赶回成都，这个时段找遍8264，绿野，磨房都没有合适的队伍跟，悲催！看来只有硬起头皮自己来，其实我是多么多么的希望有组织可以依靠，而我只需要走，不停的往前走，那才是我要的幸福户外生活。 而且发帖，从一开始准备走贡嘎，我也就准备了只留点照片在空间占个位，没事了自己看看，留给关注的朋友看看，就没想过要发帖。对我而言，发帖是一件多么悲惨的，饱受折磨的事情。花那么多时间码字，回忆，整理照片，坐在电脑前，我会发狂的。从玩户外这么多年，05年开始的，我就写过两篇帖子，但是只有一篇是写完的，另一篇就半途夭折了。而且都是在转山的路上就已经用日记的方式写在了纸上了，回来只是打上去，配点照片。出发贡嘎以后，从一出发时就安排了我们的小美女，还是在校大学生的小许负责本次的游记。但是，现在我一定要写，而且还要坐在电脑前凭借回忆原原本本的写上去。 以上啰嗦了那么多，就是因为有些话，我不得不说，不吐不快，所以我不得不写。先介绍下我们的队友。 小许 远近 谢雨 土狼 土狼+1 万里，可惜我这没有他的单人照，后面唯一的一张合影有他的一点影子，队友们有他照片的帮我贴吧。还有说明一下，我们成队为了包车方便是五个人，土狼和+1是他们先一天就到了老榆林，但是我们出发前就有联系，觉得可以一块走就等齐一块，其实是他们两兄弟在前面等着我们，辛苦了。 蔚蓝 闲话少说，我们来边图边叙。 一进到日乌且沟不久，就见到了传说中的红石滩，一个一个的红石滩，或深或浅，间断分隔。自然的和外面人工的就是不一样！ 每天起床有太阳照着是多么幸福的时光，连那个影子都那么绚丽，这丝丝缕缕的阳光，让我想起我们翻过日乌且垭口后的那一晚，那一日，我们就在大雪纷飞中拔足狂奔。 而事后想起来，矛盾就是从第一晚的扎帐开始的。我的想法是我们从水电站开始徒步，大致一个小时左右就可以到格西草原扎帐，我们的攻略上也是这样安排的。我们晚上800从水电站出发，走了大约半个钟，在一个平台处，万里先是说他上去打望下，我本来在前面领路走的，然后就是大家在等他下来，10分钟左右他来了，然后就说今晚不走了，就在这扎吧，我把我的意思和大家说明了一下，然后表明我不算是领队，大家按户外的规矩投票吧，那边谢雨最先举起了手同意就地扎帐，然后是小许，我看了看远近，她没说话，我说那就扎吧。当晚下车的时候我就觉得头沉，过远近帐篷和大家沟通了下我就回帐篷睡了。 沟通挺搞笑的。明天继续！ 继续我们出发第一晚的沟通，全队五个人，三男二女，我简单地介绍了下我们的行程，计划，再次和大家确认下，这里面谢雨和小许算是新驴，也是第一次走长线和第一次高海拔徒步，远近是爬过雪山的老驴，也就是我眼中的雪山派，万里，老驴，据他介绍是深圳登协的，俱乐部商业领队。蔚蓝，老驴，第一次带队走这样的长线。这次大家出来，我不是领队，首先要申明，我只是自己想走这条线，约几个朋友一起走，好玩，也可以分摊车费。其次，大家出来户外，尤其像我们这种重装徒步的，大家一定要了解自己。明天22号我们的目是上日乌且，23号翻垭口到磨西沟，24号冬季牧场，25号贡嘎寺，26号中午上木居，已经和多吉大叔约好了他们的小面包26号中午11点左右在那接我们，定金都已经放了，订车也是大家在老榆林就集体同意的。万里接上说，那要在子梅垭口住一晚。我看了一圈大家，没人有异议，那就稍微修改下，24号赶到贡嘎寺，25号子梅垭口扎帐，其他的不变，这一趟，我关注三个点，日乌且垭口，贡嘎寺，子梅垭口，其他的无所谓。从攻略上来看，明后天会比较辛苦。还有就是遇上大家有分歧的地方，我们大家投票选择，我说完了。 接下来就是万里同学，他说，首先，蔚蓝是我们的总领队，大家有什么事，要听从安排。其次，高海拔徒步，可能每个人高反情况不同，走到哪儿算哪，我们是出来玩的。当时听了那话，我第一感觉就是我们五个人的小队，什么总领队！未必还要整一排的副领队什么的。还有我们是重装穿越，什么走哪就算哪，那我们还做计划干嘛，还重装干嘛！在我眼里，重装就意味着能吃苦，想吃苦，以苦为乐，起码那个几天是。只是当时这些话没去说而已！当时就再次重复了没有领队这个说法，我们大家一起玩，只是前期攻略我在做而已，大家还是按投票做选择。万里听我那么说，又提了个：那大家就试下每个人轮流一天做领队，让大家体验下做领队的辛苦。我当时就没接那个话。心想，这个领队有什么权力嘛？一天到晚都在赶路看风景，有分歧了也是大家投票。而且让两个新人去做领队！完了我就回帐去睡了，我睡的是万里的帐，他们四个在远近的帐里接着海聊。这儿还有个小插曲，当时扎下帐时，我就和万里说，你要抽烟，尽量到外面抽，我不喜欢闻烟味。万里是把烟枪，他听了就跑远近帐去抽了，抽到多晚回来的？反正我早睡着了。到了行程的后面，远近一直策蔚蓝睡的帐，坐的车是不能抽烟的！说到我也觉得自己有点过分一样，把他从自己的帐篷里赶出去一样，其实我没赶哦！几个人无聊枯糙的走在沟中，一走就是两天，偶尔回头望望，就一直是这几个山峰垛那儿，听那个雪山派美女一直说说，后面最高的是什么田海子峰，是她的下一个目。我貌似没一点印象，哈哈，除了穿越贡嘎，我们道不同！ 传说中的虫草，可别只找到美女哦 小荷才露尖尖角，小贡嘎 阳光如此多娇，引无数白云竟折腰 从我们扎帐的地方出发十几分钟就到了格西草原 经过格西草原后不远，我们追上了前面的土狼哥俩，从这两队变一队，我们变成七人队。 还有从出发地就一起走过来的两位当地挖虫草的村民，一路和他们聊过来，他们也是认为现在过垭口，难。而且我们今天要赶到上日乌且，不可能。 17：30，我们终于到了下日乌且处的一处废弃的牛棚处，只剩下半围的一堆石头了。万里提议今天不走了，小许有点高反，头晕。其实这时候离天黑还有老长一段时间，我们对下日乌且也没有明确的地。攻略上称从下到上日乌且还需2个小时，如果这儿算下日乌且，我们今天完全可以按计划赶到的。我说，大家看看吧，如果今天扎帐在下日乌且，那明天我们翻垭口前的体力消耗将会很大，而且时间上对我们也挺不利，我们必须赶在中午时间翻垭口。而且前面是什么状况，垭口前垭口后是什么状况，我们没有人走过，所以尽量多留足点余地给自己。大家都比较纠结，土狼那边那个兄弟，体力也比较不乐观，因为体重的缘故，他上到高原喘得厉害，土狼给他从两岔河租个马到下日乌且，牧民就问他要了五百，其实攻略上这也就一个多钟的路程。但是这哥们精神很乐观，他随我们，我们走，他也走，我们扎，他们也扎。问关键还是回到我们这，我建议大家考虑后面的路情，尽量赶到上日乌且，但是万里提出不走了，而小谢和小许无条件的跟他的意见，远近无所谓，不发表意见，我随大家吧。只能如此！ 当夜因为有土狼他们带的腊肉，我们这边貌似都带的干粮，我带的鱼啊肉的都是那种超市买的包装的，对那种家用的有天然的亲近感，我很自然的就跑那边撑肉吃去了。小谢，小许和万里三个人在谢雨的帐篷那边弄饭吃，我们四个围在远近的帐篷里烧肉吃。今天晚上我都头痛有越来越厉害的趋势，让我想起EBC的几个观景点的苦痛，脑门两边使劲往脑袋中间挤，这样的头痛就是我的高反的典型代表。土狼的席梦思抬了一个放在帐篷里，我坐在里面，身体挺舒服，比他们任何一个都要舒服吧！但是头痛。土狼和他兄弟在折腾肉和面，我和远近就等吃就ok，玩户外这么长，似乎凡事都在亲力亲为，没享受过这种待遇一样，只是现在才反省过来的。外面慢慢的下起雪粒子，越来越大，后面又转成雨，尤其是晚上我回帐篷睡了，耳听着外面的雨转变成瓢泼大雨，担心扎在坡上的远近的A塔被水泡，防潮垫和睡袋全被水泡，那觉可真没法睡了，让万里大声叫应她，万一不行就大家挤好了，只是没有一点回声，雨的声音太大。 是夜，因为雨雪，因为有啤酒，因为有美女，我们四个好像聊了很多很多，聊到很晚了大家都不肯散一样。而关于明天关于贡嘎的，大家心头都沉着呢，估计不乐观，我们转回老榆林泡温泉算。 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左侧，沟的对面就是万古不化的冰川，在阳光下呈蓝色，不时会有轰然塌落的巨响(
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林雅安四川康定贡嘎山各种形式的穿越无可置疑的是国内徒步爱好者最喜爱的路线之一。它以沿线众多气势雄伟的山脉，连续不断的各种高山景色而著称。我早就为之所动，几年前曾花了近一年的时间在8264收集资料和作线路的准备，并在2011年的6月初作了我第一次的穿越尝试。但最后因高反等原因而未能成功。我为之非常的后悔和懊恼。这个情结一直在我的心上。今年的早些时候，我又萌发了去四川西部背包徒步的念头，实际上是个更大徒步计划中的一个阶段。我因此从国外带回几乎所有的背包徒步行装，并花费了相当的时间作线路上的准备。我于2014年6月25日至7月3日完成了四川康定贡嘎山的单人背包徒步穿越，没有借助向导人员和马匹。这条步行的线路为康定县城>榆林村>日乌且沟>上日乌且垭口>莫溪沟>下次梅村>草科村。全程距离大约为100公里。除了一整天在下次梅村的村民忠一家的休整外，其间共用时七天半的时间。徒步期间天气的基本特征为每天都有降雨，没有固定的时间，时早时晚；而且我感觉在白天里比几年前的那次徒步更频繁。从老榆林村至下次梅村，加上巴望海以东几公里均为人畜小道，令我有点吃惊，尽管每天有不少的降雨，但路面却相当的硬实；偶尔出现的泥潭稍微绕道就能解决。至于沿途的水源和涉水过溪的细节，我将在每天的纪实里更详细地说明。我的背包徒步线路和每天的营地或住地。我在2014年6月23日下午5点多钟搭乘去四川成都的火车。我从南京站出发，第二天中午就到了成都站。我出了成都站后，赶紧往附近不远处的成都城北汽车中心走去，想购买12点钟去康定的班车。幸运的很，车站仍然有余票。国道G318与往常一样，因修筑隧道，在这些地方车辆只能单向行驶，堵车耗时很利害，确又无能为力。这样我又花上了10个小时，在下着大雨的夜里来到了康定县城。我随即在康定县城的哈达客栈住下。在去康定县城途中的路旁。第一天 2014年6月25日起点 康定城哈达客栈，海拔高度2554m (手表读数8380')启程时间 945 AM终点 格西草原，海拔高度3572m (手表读数11720')扎营时间 445 PM当日行程 20公里(+/-)天气 白天多云到晴，夜里小雨~中雨。我的背包徒步线路和每天的营地或住地。我昨晚在康定县城的哈达客栈住下，12点钟以后才休息。我早上6点多钟起来，明显休息得不够。我有意再在康定呆上一天，以消除旅途的疲劳和适应高原的海拔高度，但一早起来看见天空出现的蓝天，不禁改变了念头，决定慢慢地走，去更高的海拔进行调整。既然决定今天上路，就赶紧去超市买一些食品，后来证明是多余的，不过最后都送给见到的藏族同胞了。雨季里的河流水位暴涨，急冲而下，势不可挡。不得不承认，现代的工业能力使得其附近的人类文明得以长期地保存。康定县城依旧很漂亮。虽然有很多现代化的建筑，和外来文化的展露影响，但它在很多方面都非常体现出藏族文化的特色和风格。这个城市的格局，气候，海拔，四周的群山及人文等，一直都是我的喜爱。康定市区中心的街道，广场是我每次必去的地方。对我来说，两次来去匆匆，这里的一切都尚未仔细地探索，觉得很新奇，不知何时才能消除这样的感觉。简短的购物完毕后，在回客栈的路上，抓紧留下一些更多对康定的记忆。我以前没有注意到桥上的一组雕塑。它们具有历史上汉藏民族交流的主思想。此时相对于我夏季每天开始徒步的时间已经很晚了。我知道今天的路还很长，不敢多久留，赶紧回到了哈达客栈，吃了早饭，打点好行装，踏上了去贡嘎山的经典穿越。与我在8264所了解许多徒步朋友的做法不同，我从县城里开始步行，而不是从老榆林村的水电站开始。所以这增添了大概15公里的路途。但从缓慢地适应高海拔的意义上讲，我认为是还有益处的，同时又能省下单人包车的费用。国道G318公路进出康定城的这座桥梁是乎是城郊的分界点。看着天空的乌云，心里开始有点疑惑，毕竟是在雨季里。在刚才走过的右手路边上，碰见了一位昨天一起从成都搭车来这里的藏族同胞。在我打招呼后，他也认出了我来，显得非常的友善。我们彼此相互寒喧，握手道别。 离开了国道G318后，转上了去康定新城的岔道。我实在被路边正在修建的大型建筑所震惊，到处都是建筑工地。这一带可能是最后一片开发地区。我不是专家，但一直在思考在这多地震的川西地区，从安全角度来讲，修建高层建筑是否恰当。可能我的顾虑为多余的。与上次来这里一样，人们依然在路边放养马匹，但牦牛已经看不见了。显然动物数量上的减少意味着它们的生活环境的减小，和人类的开发活动的加大。此时道路坡度增加，我能感觉到我的行走速度开始有些缓慢，心里明白我的高反已经开始。不过从康定出来的行走是个慢慢的适应高海拔的过程。我的时间还算比较充裕，即使旅途的劳累还没有消除，只要不下大雨，今天走到预订的营地，格西草原应该没有问。虽然四周的景色依然不错，但这一带的土地开发规模却十分的惊人。康定的确是个居住生活的好地方。希望开发者在完成其项目后，尽量地将环境还原其本色。道路两旁的景色很漂亮，不过在天气晴朗的大道上行走的确有些乏味，尤其是日晒皮肤的感觉也来了。我的腿部和手部的晒伤就是从此时开始的。我十分缺智地假设川西雨季的白天以乌云天气为主，即使是出太阳，也为短时间的，紫外线对皮肤的伤害影响不大。所以在启程前的一两天，我决定不携带手套，和通常在这种情况下穿的帖身长内裤。幸好带着条两节速干裤，等到明天扎营时发现自己的双腿晒伤后，便赶紧穿上了。康定新城里的非常具有藏族特色的建筑。 回望康定县城。很多东西现在都在脚下了。环绕它四周的群山此时看得更加清楚。对生活在丘陵地带的我来说，这样的市镇座落是个很大的惊奇。而左手的山腰上的G318的交通清晰可见。我试着去辨认昨晚在哈达客栈结识的几个骑车去拉萨的年轻人，但根本做不到，只希望他们平安走运。康定新城的生活区旁一组反映当年汉藏贸易交往的历史人物的塑像，应该是茶马古道上的各种生活细节。 这俩兄弟的形像挺逼真的，很有色彩。 不小的队伍。好象比实物都大不少，蛮生动的。那石头上刻的字，"西出炉关" 不知意味着是否当年的茶马古道在此结束，再往西就纯粹是藏区了。康定新城的生活区。我在这分岔路口向几个过路人确认了去老榆林村的路。天热，口真渴，但带出来的两升水每时还必须谨慎地控制，不敢多喝。人的皮肤感到太阳的火辣，平时不太注意的我，尽找阴凉的地方走，但我还没有意识到皮肤实际上已经开始受伤了。 在回头朝康定县城方向看去。它已在山粱的背后了。可能是最后能国道G318的地方。还是想说，特喜欢这个被群山环抱的新城。高山前的康巴大酒店，很有异域的风格和特色。其色彩与背景天空调和得那么粉彩绚丽。想不到来自远方的宗教在这里偏僻的地方居然能够出现。这也充分体现了现在国家对宗教存在的容忍和民众信仰的多样化。又是一个密集的居民区和商业点。其附近还有一些政府的机构。这里是康定新城的边缘。我估量着该是午饭的时间，便坐在图片最左边楼前的路旁用餐。好奇的人过来问我的情况。我如实回答他们。我知道今天的饮水很多，便向一家作街门销售的老板们讨水。他们爽快的答应了我，确实给我补充了很多的水。要不然再往前走几十米就出康定新城，以后向藏族老乡讨水就更难了。所以以后若再重复这里过程的话，考虑到天气，气温，和防止高反用水，我至少要带3升水。从国道G318分岔到去新城的路上后大部分为国家机构，店几乎没有。只有新城生活区里沿途才有几家便利店。我非常感谢给我水的老板夫妇。当然出城后也可以去沿途村里的小卖部买水或向老乡讨水。虽然不如上次见到的人多，我一路还是碰见了好几位老乡，非常的好，肯定会帮助解决水的问的。沿途的乡村景色。沿途的乡村景色。 可喜地看到当地的居民也种植一些农作物，以补充食物的来源。嗨，居然还有车站。我想可能是连接榆林村与康定市区的班车。当然还有小卖部，但我没有上前探询，不知是否营业。路边景色第一次提醒我今后的几天里我所大概要见到的。 路上遇见一位才从山里干完活回家的藏族妇女。她很健谈，汉语也说得很好。我们一路聊了好一会儿，直到她到图片里的这个家，还邀请我有空去"耍耍"，用的词汇居然与中原地区的方言一样! 非常朴实真诚的藏族村民!背景为日乌且沟东侧的一座大山。去海螺沟的公路就在它前面的山脚下。我有遇见了一群在地里干活的村民，很多是妇女。在他们朝我看来的时候，我首先高喊"扎西德勒"! 他们也相对地回应了我，随后一阵笑声。他们对外人很是友好。我心里感到若遇上什么困难，他们一定会尽力帮助我的，事实上以后的经历也证明了
达兔极速—区极速—区中文字幕
林子瑶出发前写下的话：去西藏，而且还是去阿里，世界屋脊的屋脊，不是去郊区郊游，要面对的困难以及要准备的东西真的很多，也不知道是不是真的是好事多磨，正文之前就先写写我出发前遇到的主要困难、解决办法及最后的结局遇到的困难：1.今年是毕业年，和每一个毕业生一样，要面临找工作和答辩两大问，但是工作何时能定，答辩及时能完，一切都不是我能掌握和确定的，所以我不知道自己有多长的假期，或者说有没有假期，从年后一直烦闷，直到4月底知道答辩时间这种烦闷才略有好转。2.不知道有多少人会与我同行，因为我去西藏是打算包车的，而一辆越野车除司机外是坐3~4个人，最好是4个，这样费用是最划算的，人少了就贵，人多了就得再加一辆车，4或8个人当然最好，3个，6个，7个也行，万一是5个，那就真是呜呼哀哉了。3.行程的确定，到底是走A计划还是B计划，一直在纠结，最主要的原因是考虑到妈妈的身体情况。4.钱的问，小金毛的寄养问，旗子的问，师傅6月初开大会不知道哪一天结束的问，到底我是从北京还是从广州出发的问，中间还夹杂了去长岛的旅行问。。。。。。反正就是有一堆的问等待自己去发现及解决。解决的方法及最后的结果：1.（1）答辩的时间为5月21号，不会对出行造成影响。 （2）原计划6月6号广州飞拉萨，但我4号就得离开北京，回来安置好我家的小金毛，和妈妈一起出发，但不知道师傅的会几号结束，最后会议定在1~3号，4号踏实地离开。 （3）工作方面，陆总在5月24,25号两天进行了面试和体检，再有消息是6月中下旬，对我的计划几乎不造成影响，庆幸一下，但还是尽快回来为好。 （4）省医一开始说体检时7月中下旬的事，也不会对我的计划造成影响，但是在4号晚上，北京回广州的火车上，我接到了6号一早体检的通知，顿时傻了，是不去体检呢？还是改机票呢？南航一天就一个航班，我是退南航票，买别家的呢，还是改晚一天呢？N个电话后得到的结果是，如果退南航的票，买别家的票贵就不说，而且我之前买的是来回程的票，去程不坐南航，回程就没了，所以只能改后一天，但是改后一天，我就只能晚一天办边境证，也就是6月8号，但原计划是8号出发走阿里，8号办证能来得及么？一天的适应时间我妈妈受得了么？又是N个电话加深思熟虑，最后决定所有行程顺延一天，8号是周五，还能办边境证，要是周末就又得等两天，当机立断，赶紧改机票，又是N个电话，还是火车过山洞时信号不好的时候不断拨打，最终结果就是事情安排妥当后，几十块钱电话费又没了。不幸中的大幸是6号体检，万一是7号和8号，麻烦只会更大的。2.好兄弟脖子鱼一开始就退出了西藏之行，原因是多方面的，让我深感遗憾，就和去年贡嘎一样。小悠和张扬又没时间，色狼家里不放人，小肠没经费，老婆要考试，就算不考试家里也不同意，所以身边能和我同行的还是只有康娜。3.（1）行程的确定，一开始我想过两种进藏方案，一种是成都包车走318国道到拉萨，然后再去看珠峰，二是先到拉萨，再包车到处走，后来因为年后去云南，走梅里线的时候，一天坐12小时汽车，实在是烦了，所以改成了直奔拉萨。还有就是到拉萨的交通工具，开始时想坐火车的，但是票不好买，而且火车时间太长，我们的时间也有限，所以就改成飞机直飞，到拉萨再适应吧。至于到拉萨以后再怎么走，最后我选的是A计划，去阿里，因为实在是太喜欢看雪山了，心中太执着了，而且妈妈再不去，以后的身体条件更不适合了，这次不能说没有危险，我只能做好充分的准备，高原安，红景天，氧气，甲强龙，一个都不能少，而且先去看珠峰，万一不行，可以方便下撤。 （2）包车的问，找了很多家旅行社，报价从20000到24000不等，最后选择了一个最便宜的，也是给我感觉最好的一家。由于我们只有3人，一直还想再找到第4人，尝试了现实里拉人，网络上找人，最后未果，只能盯着高昂的车费出发，但愿风景能值回票价。 （3）第一次定机票时也出现了小插曲，导致原本十几分钟的事情愣是弄了一个半小时，最后的结果还不错，票都买下来，而且我也和那个客服代表熟悉了，以后订票又多了条私人关系。 （4）其他方面的问也一一解决，钱筹够了，小金毛放小舅家寄养了，摄影攻略找到了合适的了，装备也整齐了，药业买了。总的来说就是麻烦和困难很多，但都一一排除以及克服了。去西藏我一开始以为是需要三样东西，时间、金钱、身体，但后来我又发现需要魄力，但到了4号晚上接到体检通知的时候我有发现，还需要第5样，就是运气，如果我这次无法成行，无法圆梦，只能说明我暂时还与西藏无缘，但无论成行与否，所有的艰难困苦都将是对我的磨练，而我也从中学到很多东西，希望这次的圆梦之旅能顺利完成！出发前，先展示一下朋友们对我们的祝福，这是刚拿到旗子的时候拍的，到出发的时候，整面旗子都已经是名字了，可以和后面的照片对比 DAY1广州——拉萨444AM 睁眼，等待5点的到来，在等待的过程中赶到了淡淡的哀伤，是为什么呢？是这趟旅行的花费太高了，舍不得了？很多好友无法同行，亲爱的老婆也无法同行的缘故么？头天睡觉前看了一篇别人的游记，一路的风霜雨雪，没有美景，只有痛苦，我是在担心风景不给力么？500AM 起床，HR：53次/分。老妈起床时说昨晚吃了高原安后头疼，晨起还好点，这TMD是啥情况？不是假药吧！700AM办完登机，选择了安全通道那排座位，其中一个靠窗，航拍雪山是肯定不可少的，机场测得海拔27米，113°17′51″E，23°23′28″N。 飞机从广州至重庆一路的行程都是厚厚的云层，我的心也如云层一样厚重，我不希望蓝天，白云和阳光被乌云遮蔽。我们的飞机在重庆经停，再起飞前广播说起飞时间延后50分钟，但最终只晚了30分钟，在等待起飞的过程中，测得重庆的数据：海拔252米，106°38′12″E，29°43′4″N。飞机从重庆到拉萨的过程中，云层越来越薄，最后都已经变成小块状的了，地面已经能看见了，雪山也能看见了，我的心情终于也多云转晴了。快降落时我发现了，在西藏，天云地是如此的接近，这是以前从来没有体会过的感觉，在广州长大的我，从来都觉得云彩是高不可攀的1500 到达拉萨贡嘎机场，海拔3623米，91°7′57″E，29°39′52″N。我们住在天树花园酒店，下午算好日落的时间到布宫拍照，一开始夕阳被云朵挡住了，但是后来还是出现了，由于布宫不是非常准的坐北朝南，所以夕阳只把金顶和我们照亮了这就是在药王山的角度拍摄布宫，算是拍摄布宫的准照的机位吧，票价2元/人。今天从海平面直飞拉萨，轻微头疼（主要是同时拎着60来斤的行李），在药王山拍布宫时抽烟，头疼加重，但过会就好。说到在药王山拍摄布达拉宫，这里确实是个不错的机位，但是，来的人实在太多了，基本上拍出来的照片只要不是跑焦的，基本上都差不多，除非有很好的阳光和云彩作为衬托，不然我觉得，以我的摄影技术，想在这个位置拍出出彩的照片，难度恐怕很高。DAY2：拉萨晨起HR：70次/分，一晚上头疼，醒了多次，不过很快能再次入睡。上午去百益超市买干粮，罐头，零食等东西，以备大北线上没有吃饭的地方不至于饿死。我有一本摄影攻略，作者叫老鱼，下午我去布宫东侧拍摄布宫时，来到一个叫做老鱼饭局的餐馆，结果一聊才知道这个餐馆就是攻略那个老鱼开的，而且他本人就在餐馆内，于是和老鱼交流摄影经验，留了他的电话，然后就走去大昭寺，准备拍磕长头了。先用长焦拍，效果一般由于这个地方环境狭小，而且光线明暗差异很大，加上人多，动作杂乱，所以感觉用长焦拍摄不方便，就换上了24-70这个镜头，下面这张照片是一位藏民在给一个不知名的炉子里添加酥油。这是我很喜欢的一张照片，经幡与藏民，不能说每一个经过这个经幡的藏民都会虔诚的用额头来触碰这些经幡，但大多数都会停下脚步，用身体某个部分去与之接触换个角度看这个经幡，其实是某个东西的基座，远处是大昭寺的金顶，双鹿法轮就在我拍摄这个经幡的时候，一位藏族的大妈来向我化缘来了，可不要以为藏族同胞都是好吃懒做喜欢行乞的，而是他们为了心中的信仰，在朝拜途中实在没有经济来源时才向同胞求助的，我当然要慷慨解囊了，而且正好和老大妈说让她别动，当我的模特，说起来搞笑，这是我第一次付费拍摄，代价是5元，可惜当时没带外闪，阳光从头顶直射下来，加上大妈的帽子有宽大的帽檐，导致了他面部完全在阴影里，只有下巴有点亮光，没法把她脸上的神态和纹理拍摄清楚总觉得刚才在大昭寺门口没有拍到自己满意的照片，尤其是捕捉不到人们磕长头时的景象，非常的不甘心，于是我再次换上70-200焦距的爱死小白，蹲在大昭寺门口边上，换个角度，不从侧后方，二是从正侧方尝试抓拍，结果拍到了一张我很满意的照片，照片中的老大妈的虔诚一度让我忘记了按下快门，因为在那一瞬间，我的脑子不是在思考怎么拍照，而是在思考这大昭寺里面究竟有什么东西那么大魔力，让这位大妈这么身亡，这么诚心的跪拜没多久老妈和康娜来了，我们就到大昭寺广场外的藏餐馆吃饭，然后再度折回大昭寺，我妈每次看到这些小东西，都会忍不住停下来看看，有时候不得不说这些小玩意是挺吸引人的大昭寺广场永远都有转经的人流，这一天，我们并没有随人流转大昭寺，但是当我们从大北线回来以后，我们在此转了一圈本想在经幡边上打旗子的，但是保安不让，我只好站在经幡边上让康娜给我留影了，恰好有转经的人经过，我的相机也记录下一个游客与一个信徒之间的差异，我是用手随意地触摸着经幡，她是用额头虔诚的靠近经幡，其实当时我不是故意这么做出对比的，只是当时我是在思考问的时候，康娜给抓拍的，不知道这样一个不经意的动作，算不算是内心的自然流露呢前面说错了，原来我们这天也是转了大昭寺的，这张照片是我妈在选购小玩意时，我等她的时候抓拍的，其实在这一路上，磕长头的人有很多，但是要抓到一张自己满意的，并不是那么容易的，因为你既不能走得太近去打扰他们，又不能离得太远被人流遮挡镜头，所以想要拍一张好的，真要花点心思转经筒在八角街随处可见，大到要双手才能抱起来的，小到可以当手机挂饰的，款式太多，眼都花了，用店家的话说，总有一款适合你我们汉族人过年帖对联，藏族人是在屋顶插经幡，过年的时候把去年的旧经幡取下，但不是随意丢弃，而是统一集中到某个特定的地方，让其慢慢风化，回归自然。给我的感觉就是，他们很重视这些经幡，即使他们旧了，也不随意丢弃，而是给他们找个好归宿最后，夕阳西下，天公作美，送了我一张这样的照片。从大昭寺出来以后给老婆买了唐卡，然后坐人力三轮车回宾馆。在回程时和蹬车的人聊天发现他是个伟大的父亲，蹬了16的车，今年42岁，也就是说在和我一样年纪的时候就开始蹬车了，而且就是靠着蹬车养活了4个孩子，最大的孩子马上就要大学毕业了，突然觉得他很伟大，我在26岁的时候还在四处乱花钱，人家却已经靠着卖苦力养家糊口了。没有给这个伟大的爸爸照相，因为我不知道怎么用照片来表达我当时的感受，所以只能以文字表述了。DAY3 拉萨——日喀则630起床，700出门去拍布宫日出，地点已经选好，就是昨天去过的老鱼饭局，因为早上的缘故，选择了在布达拉宫的东面，顺光的方向拍摄的，这也是为什么在下午的时候要在药王山拍摄的原因，就是不想逆光。当第一缕阳光照到布宫时，我得到了这么张照片在思考光圈，快门，色温以及构图的时候，我无意间发现天上的云彩似乎呈问号状，于是拍了一张布宫在思考的照片太阳越升越高，布宫呈现明暗相间，可以和第一缕阳光刚照上布宫那张比较一下 1000 陆地巡洋舰正式起航，开始我们阿里大北线之旅，出发前公里数：315917KM1200 到达岗巴拉山口，这是第一个能看到羊卓雍错的地方，也是拍摄羊卓雍错准照的地方，天气好的话，还能看见远处7000+的宁金岗桑峰，这天虽然云比较多，但雪山还是为我露出了笑脸和藏獒合影完后，我们第一次打旗，现在的旗子已经是慢慢的祝福了顺公路下行一小段，来到一个不知道算不算是观景台的地方，换个角度继续拍摄羊湖，在这里我先用牦牛当前景照相，感觉不错，可我照完以后居然有个藏民过来和我说要收5元，我不乐意了，我说我拍之前你不说，现在说什么意思，要不我把照片删了行了吧，那老哥说删了也收钱，我听了就来气，直接无视他继续拍照再来一张羊湖的准照，因为这个地方基本上是人人都会选择拍照的地方，所以拍出来的也都差不多，要真想找不同的角度，除非到对面的山头上吧，这张照片很好的说明了，在晴天来到羊湖的重要性，因为天上的云彩会严重影响湖面的颜色左边是我，中间是同学康娜，右边是我妈虽然一干朋友没能同行，但打个旗，让朋友们看到这张照片的时候，也算是心里好过点吧，至少我在看到美景的同时，是想着和你们一起分享的最后当然少不了接片了，因为羊湖很大，而且形状极其不规则，湖水分布在山脉之间，所以是不可能照全的，除非从上往下航拍。这天多云，湖面不是纯蓝色的，而是蓝黑相间，虽没看见最美的羊湖，但此景对付我这种凡夫俗子的审美，那是绰绰有余了，借用一哥们的话说，湖面如同磨砂玻璃一样，呵呵([]
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